Garment support



Filed Jan. 18, 1926 2 Sheets-Sheet In I.

gz wemtoz FELIX C/M/B July 16, 1929.

F. CHARDON GARMENT SUPPORT Filed Jan. 18, 1926 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 c vwemiioz FEL/X fill/IP00 Patented July 16, 1929.

-- "UN T -DI HES PA ENT; Q F CF -J E Lrx CHARDON, or

GLEN ROCK, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNOB rozronu MAENIEG van 1 U F osrou; MASSACHUSETTS;

GARMENT sUProE'r.

p Application filed January 18, 1928. Serial No. 81,916.

This invention relates to improvements in garment Supports and more particularly to shoulder straps used in connection with womens wearing. apparel. 5 One of the chief objects ofiny invention is -to provide a shoulder strap which will not wrinkle or become stringy after a short period of wear, and which will not readily slip from the shoulder of the wearer. 1 ilnothcr object is to provide a shoulder strap which is sufficiently sheer and delicate in appearance ;'and feel to-smeet'the prevailing mode in "womens shoulder straps, and at the same time retain its non-slip properties even after a suceession oflaunderings; Other objects will hereinafter appear. i

The shoulder strap of my in rention is made *ofpile fabric, of a construction and weight which will give a minimum of bulky thickness and still retain, as compared with shoulder straps now commonly used, a marked re sistance to longitudinal wrinkling; or rolling; up into a stringlike mass. This is accomplished'loy properly balancing the weave and the material, as will be more fully described hereinafter. The pile threads are slanted or inclined transversely, that is, across the length ofthe shoulder strap, and when worn these inclined threads arc so directed as to 3 resist the normal tendency of the shoulder strap to slip down and off the shoulder.' It

is important that the pile threads be fixed or set in the desiredtransversely inclined position so that they will continue to function dency to resume an erect position after a short period of wear. My invention embraces an improved pile fabric which in the arrange ment and concatenation of the threads gives the-pile threads a normal and substantially I fixed Slant or inclination in the desired direc tionscribed in connection with the accompanying properly even after:extendedwear;' In ta- The invention will be moreiparticularly dedrawings illustrative of certain embodiments thereof, in which w p 5 Fig. 1 shows in actual use a shoulder strap 5 embodying my invention. i

Fig. 2 is a diagrammatical sectional view of the shoulder strap taken along t-helinc 22 of Fig. 1. l-

Fig. 3 shows a short section of the Shoulder 60 strap of Fig. 1, pile surface uppermost. 5..

Fig. 4. is a weave diagram for the particular shoulder strap ribbon Shown inFig.-1.

Fi 5 is a harnessdraft for the Weave-dia-a; grain of Fig 6. Fig. 6 is a simplified weave ,diagram.in which velvet-and binder threads only are \own.

Fig. 7 is a perspective view showing thew binder and velvet threadsof Figsr5 and-6 as they appear in the lower ribbon and'i'llustrating the transverse slant of the velvet threads.

The particular fabric which I haveselecte'd to describe herein as illustrative of my invention is a velvet ribbon designated by reference numeral 1. The pile surface 2 is shown in i i 2 and 8, as is also the narrow satin edge 3 which extends from the body of the ribbon and gives the same a neat and finishedappearance. The weave diagram: shown in 30 Fi 51.4 will be intelligible to weavers skilled in the art and will be foundto Show the weave cmistruction of the cloth. It is common practire to weave velvet ribbon in a .doublelayeri That is. two ribbons are woven simultaneous- 35 l v, one being. directly over-the other a-ndthe velvet or pile warp threads passing from; one ribbon to the other and connecting themtogether until they are severed by the cutting or shearing of the velvet. This is accom- 0 plished by lifting and lowering threads-for both top and bottom ribbons thus, creating two separate openings or sheds'at the same time. Two shuttles, one in top shed-and one in bottom shed, pass through at the same time. 5 This creates two ribbons simultaneously; connected only. as aforesaid. by the velvet warp. The weave diagram of Fig. 4 thus shows the layout for what really is two ribbons disposed. one over the other and woven simultaneously. This, as has been said, is the common method of weaving ribbon of this character and-I believe it tube the most satisfactory and economie'al, although I do not; at course, limit velvet warp, /2 scha pp e; filling, /2

cotton.

The length of the pile in the particularfabric I am now describing is about 1/16.

The binder threads'are so positioned'inithe weave illustrated in Fig. 4 that a binder lies on the face of the ribbon adjacent to on'e=side of each velvet or pile thread as it passes under the weft thread. For example, we find a velvet or pile threadtying'into the fabric at a given point and right-next to it, buti above the weftthrcad at that'point a binder thread. The presence of this tightly drawn binder thread on one side crowding against the velvet and the absence of a similar thread on the other side causesthe velvet or pile threads to lie over and slant away from the binder thread as soon as the-velvetis out. The velvet is, of course, tightly caught and held in the ClOtlllll-SGlT and'it is-on'ly-the extending ends of pile threads thatfiare displaced sidewise' into an inclined position. The base of' the threads remains substantia'lly fixed and'prevent thepile from-loosening or pulling-out.

In Fig. 4 the vertical rows of squaresmarked 1 and 2 represent the-velvet or pile threads and the vertical rows of squares m arked. 3 and 4-represent the binder threads. The two velvet threads are common to both the upper and lower ribbons of the double woven material while binder threads3 and 4 are present in each ribbon *but do not pass- This back and forth from one to the other.

is accomplished'by the use of a double eyeheddle. The next eight rows represent the warp'threads forming the baek of the iipper and lower ribbons,-,the"odd rows being in the bottom ribbon and the evcn'rows in the top ribbon. This completes the showing for the niain'body portion of the ribbon of'Fig. 1. T he remaining vertical rows of squares deal with the weave construction of the narrow edge extending from the bodyof the ribbon on both sides. are used.

Figs. 5, 6, and '7, show the invention in its simplest form. Only the pile threads and binder threads are illustrated. These, however, act 'in exactly the same manner as the pile threads 1 and 2 and the binder threads 3 and 4 of the ribbon hereinbefore described. Referring to the velvet threads 1 and 2 of weave diagram Fig. 6, the squares marked with three'horizontalbars indicatethe velvet bindinginto the bottom ribbon; the squares marked with an indicate the velvet in a position between the upper and lower ribbons and not binding into either ribbon on that Here again double eye heddles' pick; the squares filled in in black indicate the velvet binding into the top ribbon.

It will be seen from Fig. 7, which shows the bottom ribbon, that on pickGbin-der 4 and velvet -1 are below the filling and binder 3 is above the filling. Velvet 2 is binding into the vupper ribbon on this ,pick .and does not .appear. .Qnpick B binder 3 is below the filling, binder 4 above the filling and velvet threads ilealldigflle passing from one ribbon to the other on this pick and do not bind into either ribbon.

-On pick A velvet 2 and binder 3 are below "the filling while binder 4 adjacentto velvet 2 is above the filling. Velvet 1 is binding into the upper-ribbon on this pick and does not appear. Pick D is .thes ameas pick 13 except that the'bmder threadwhich was down-on the latter is up-on theformer and vice versa. It

willbe-notedthat in each case where a'velvct thread isbinding into :the ribbon there is a binder thread adjacent to it and above the 'filli-n g'at that point. Also it will benoted that the binder thread on .the otherside-of th e velvet 'passes'aincler the filling with the velvet and't-hus' leavesanopcn space above. The binder thread above'the-filling-presses against the velvet and forcesiit-overiinto the open space, thus causing it to slant transve-rselyas illustrated. a I

I have now given :full'particularswhich enable any weaveraskilled in the art .to

duplicate in every respect one ribbon which embodies my i-nvention and' hasbeen :found to give exceedingly satisfactory results as a shoulder strap for-womens lingerie- The pile of this ribbon .willebe found to have a trans- Verse or crosswise slant which .is a novel feaotthe Shoulder strap to slip down andoif the shoulder will be resisted bythe iinclincd pile threads lwhichare-braced, as it were, against travel in that direction.

Thisslanting position of the pile is pro luoed'by the positioning. ofthe'binder threads and is,-- therefore, inherent in the ribbon. Since the pile threads areinormally slanted in my improved ribbon they do not tend to become erect when in use-or during laundering as do the pile-threads in other ribbons where the slant is produced after the weaving process bysteaining and brushing or other means. My invention is applicable to any pile fabric whether the pile be dong orshort. But it is of particular value in shoulder strap ribbons where it is essential to have a sheer delicate fabric and where it is, therefore, advantageous 'to use relatively short, closely sheared pile. In such ribbons ordinary methods of slanting the =pi'lethreatls are of questionable value 'since' in many cases-the-pile returns to its original erect position when subjected to wear and the laundering process. Ribbons made in accordance with my invention may,

if desired, be given the steaming and brushing operation to supplement or exaggerate the natural inclination of the pile but this I do not consider to be necessary.

I wish it to be very clearly understood that the detailed description of the ribbon of Fig. 1 is given forflpurposes of illustration merely, and notwith the intention of limiting the scope of my invention in any respect. Numerour changes can be made without departing from the spirit of the invention. The edge construction, for example, may be changed in any desired manner or the edge entirely omitted. The materials used may vary widely, as also may the precise weave employed. The main object of the invention is to produce a fabric suitable for a garment support, said fabric having pile threads or other contact filaments inherently inclined so that when worn they will engage the skin or clothing of the wearer and resist the tendency of the garment or support to slip.

\Vhat I claim is:

1. In a garment support, a fabric comprised of warp and weft threads and having on at least one surface thereof extending contact filaments which, in the weave, are inclined substantially in the direction of the weft threads, said contact filaments being adapted to engage the skin or clothing of the wearer and resist slip.

2. In a garment support, a fabric comprised of warp and weft threads and having on at least one surface thereof pile threads which,

in the weave, are inclined substantially in the direction of the weft threads, said pile threads being adapted to engage the skin or clothing of the wearer and resist slip.

3. In a garment support, a fabric comprised of warp and weft threads with selvage edges lengthwise of the warp, said fabric having on at least one surface thereof pile threads inclined in the weave substantially at right angles to said selvage edges so that when worn the pile threads point obliquely inward toward the body and in the direction of the normal slip of the garment support.

4. A garment support containing pile fabric having warp and weft threads, the binder warps of said fabric being closely adjacent to the. pile warps on one side only, giving the cut pile threads a natural inclination substantially in the direction of the weft threads.

5. In a garment support, a fabric comprised of warp and weft threads and having textile contact filaments extending therefrom, threads adjacent to one side of said contact filaments being woven into the fabric differently from these adjacent to the other side of said contact filaments, and the contact fila ments thereby possessing an inherent weftwise inclination.

6. In a garment support, a fabric comprised of warp and weft threads and having contact filaments extending therefrom, the positioning and interlacing of the threads being such that the contact filaments are given an inclination substantially in the direction of the weft threads.

FELIX CHARDON. 

